Greetings All,
Finished My Roy Fokker not to long ago, and finally found the time to post a tutorial on how I painted him up.
Enjoy.......
If you have been following along to my painting tutorials you may notice that I'm using mostly the same techniques I used previously to paint up my Rick Hunter and Regults, for those of you finding this site for the first time this will be new, so enjoy either way......
Per my Previous painting posts as reference:
"Now I would like to point out that I use GW paints because I have used them for a long period of time, and am used to them, my method can be copied with any mini paint product out there. I have a mix of the new and slightly older paints on my desk so I will be designating the paints I use, however for some of the older GW paints they paints I will list may have been replaced by new paints with the same color, but different name. It is important to note that during this process i frequently added water to my paints and washed and wet my brush to make sure that the paint didn't get clumpy and continued to flow smoothly.
There are two styles to layering paints and I tend to use a blend of both depending on the look I am looking for.
Smooth Blend : When painting layers with paints you need to paint several layers with the same color to get a smooth blend, especially when using light colors. When putting down the layer of a color in this method I will paint the surface with the color and then add layers on top of the first with each layer set back slightly from first to create a smooth gradient blend from dark to light across the surface. The goal of painting this way is to get a smooth blend from the darker under coat to the edge that you want to be lighter.
Banded Highlights: Alternately you can paint layers in a more cartoon style. In this method the layers are painted in bands so you see a solid color with a dark edge and light edge."
For this Mini I mostly painted with Banded Highlights for a cartoon feel.
1) Base: As with most of my minis I used a GW black primer.
2) Yellow: I started with a base of GW Averland Sunset followed by a layer of Yriel Yellow, and then highlighted/edged with Flash Gitz Yellow
3) Red stripes, lights, and lenses:
I always start my red with either a layer of Red Gore.
Next I layer on Blood Red.
It's hard to make out in the picture but I put on a final highlight with blazing orange.
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| For lenses and lights I paint using the gem method: Paint almost the whole surface with the dark shade, then the next layer is painted on as a arc on the left and top of the lenses (for a square surface it is less an ark and more a stripe), the last layer is painted as a thinner ark over the first. As a added effect you can put a lens flare using white, simply put a small dot of paint on the dark side of the lens to look like a light reflecting on a smooth surface. Sometimes I put a color wash or varnish on the surface to get a shine and make the colors blend. |
4) "Black" and Dark Grey Sections: I painted the guns, foot pieces, and a few other locations with the GW paint Eshin Grey, but only as a thick band except for a few locations I wanted to be grey and not have black show through .
Next I painted a highlight of the GW paint Dawnstone on the edges and ridges, and on the guns I drew a line down the barrels to represent a cartoon style light reflection.
I placed a final highlight on the same locations and edges with he GW paint Administration Grey.
Note:
On a few surfaces, such as the missiles, I used a slightly watered down wash of Nuln Oil on all the grey and black surfaces. The wash helps blend the layers together and create a uniform matte finish, as well as darkening the surface.
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| If you watch anime and cartoons you may have noticed that the surfaces that are black usually have a lighter band on them to show edges of surfaces or reflection on the surface. When I paint "Black" I use greys on black surfaces to create this cartoon effect. |
5) Next it was time for the "white" of the body.
White is one of the harder colors to paint on minis. It tends to not coat well and usually takes multiple layers to not have the base show through, and then can end up not being smooth. Minis that are mostly white are usually better of with a white primer, unless you want good dark shadows lines as you can see in this model. Thus When I want "white" areas but still have the dark edges I use light greys for the white.
In order to get a smooth finish I started with a base layer of Celestra Grey, making sure to keep edges and grooves showing black.
Next I paint on a layer of Ulthuan Grey. where the leg wings and in a few locations I left the previous layer exposed to create a shadow along the surface.
Finally I edge with White Scar.
I started with a base coat of Macragge Blue.
Next I painted the light on the knee with a band of Calgar Blue (gem method) and put a coat over the entire canopy. The previous shade on the canopy allows the lighter blue to be applied once and still have some slight darker blue showing for a varied color on the surface.
The next shade of Hoeth Blue is painted on the front and back edge of the canopy and along the center of the canopy. The Light receives a similar band as the previous.
Next a highlight with Blue Horror is painted as a thinner band over the previous.
Finally I use a small highlight of White Scare.
Note:
As I painted each color I would occasionally apply black to the small valleys and edges between colors where my application of paint overlapped or accidentally filled in one of the black lines.
7) Decals:
Next I added some decals. As I mentioned in my previous post I put a small amount of Micro Set decal setting solution before I place the decal and then after letting it dry a bit I cover the decals with Micro Sol. The combination of the two products soften the decals so they conform to the surfaces, this is key when placing decals on curved surfaces such as the cockpit shield in battloid mode.
A Few Pictures of the Finished Mini:
My Next Work in Progress:
PythnutD
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